Food, Days Out and Travel stories from Brighton, London and the Rest of the World

Saturday

Days Out in Brighton - Brighton Art Fair highlights 2016

Back this weekend for its annual celebration of contemporary art and design, the Brighton Art Fair returns to the Brighton Dome.


Days Out in Brighton, Brighton Art Fair highlights 2016 photo by modern bric a brac
Amanda Cobbett
SHARE:

Thursday

Days Out near London - Salute to the 40s at Chatham Dockyards

What I hadn't realised about the 40s was just how glamorous a set of victory rolls could be.

Days Out near London - Salute to the 40s at Chatham Dockyards, photos by modern bric a brac

For those who already appreciate how glamorous the 1940s were, I send my apologies. For me it took a trip to a dockyard in Chatham, in Kent to have this lightbulb moment.
SHARE:

Saturday

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA

It was a day of natural wonders that began with the sighting of a swallows nest full of noisy chicks pitched up in the beam of the ladies public toilets at Lizard Point.

The mum swallow came darting in, swooping low through the open door and up to three open beaks. We were so close to the three little heads lined up in the nest that it felt quite a privilege and it was a great way to start the day.

Pulling out the map and with mobile sat nav in hand we headed north. We were still at England's most southerly point. Our next stop was Boscastle, north of Tintagel and possibly a long journey away.

Luckily though it turned out to be brief and uneventful, except for our first encounter with driving through a ford. In front of us flowed a very small river, or is that a large stream (?), which we crossed with a big sloush of water beneath the car as the road dipped to its lowest point.



With nothing more to mention we reached the edge of Boscastle and began the descent of a very steep road. Along one side a row of attractive, uniform slatestone villas descended before us and then dropped out of sight. We had no idea what to expect in the valley below.

We turned around a bend in the road and as we reached the bottom of the valley grey slatestone buildings began to multiply before us. On either side were former warehouses, industrial buildings and cottages that dated back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when Boscastle had been a thriving harbour. As we approached the bridge in the centre of the town, the sun shone and tourists seemed to fill either side of the road. The sat nav had directed us to turn left by the bank of the river onto what looked like a pedestrianised area. We took a left and slowly drove passed groups of staring people, wondering, I felt sure, who could be so stupid as to drive along this path. I felt like shrinking in the passenger seat and hiding. Something had gone wrong. We parked up and my Welsh One decided to go seeking the YHA, our destination for the night on foot.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


Meanwhile, I could take in our new surroundings. Pretty stone cottages lined either side of a river that flowed over sheets of slate. Shops and cafes were bustling with people and it looked like nowhere I had been before. It was a very peaceful scene.

My Welsh One came back and explained that we needed to park in the main car park on the other side of the river. Our drive of shame would have to be reversed.

This time, our drive was very brief as it was a short distance to the car park where we only had to pay for an hours parking because it's free after 6pm in the evening.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


We could now have a proper look around and I noticed a high tide mark, possibly 6 ft high on an old building opposite and I wondered what it could mean. For my Welsh One it made the penny drop, he remembered why he knew the name of Boscastle.  At almost exactly the same time of year that we were there, Boscastle had been devastated by floods in 2004. It's unbelievable looking at the place now, which is an incredible testament to the hard work of this local community in restoring this picturesque town so well.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


It was time to check in and we headed back to the YHA Boscastle. It was our third YHA in three days and the views from our previous stays had been fabulous. The YHA had suffered extensively during the floods and had been completed refitted as a consequence. Housed in a former stable building the YHA is attractive looking on the outside, built from the local stone. Inside our room felt cosy, there were three beds, one double and one single. Again, it was our private room for the night and we had the most lovely view of the pretty river and hillside. Through the open windows we could hear the faint trickle of the river as it flowed onwards.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


Outside we headed up a path at the back of the hostel onto the south west coastal path. The path rose up higher as we moved closer towards the sea while Boscastle grew smaller and smaller in the distance. On either side we could see people of all ages doing the same. Down below in the ancient harbour now empty of cargo, kids were jumping into the sea water in wet suits.

We continued to climb the rocks until we reached the very edge, called Penally Point. It had taken us no time to reach it and the views from the clifftop were superb.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com


This was to be the final night of our Cornish adventure and we were again to receive a great recommendation from one of the YHA team for our last night. The lady at the YHA told us of a local singing group that gathered every Wednesday to sing folk songs and it was worth a visit.

I love folk so I was keen. I wasn't sure how my electronic-loving Welsh Man would find it, but he promised to go for a while. It turned out to be a wonderful night. In particular a young lady in mustard who sang the most beautiful song accompanied by guitar. I didn't find out her name or the name of the song, but I know it was her own composition and in the summer of 2016 the venue was the back of the Wellington pub.

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com



It had been a day full of delights and a wonderful holiday with thanks to the YHA for three nights accommodation.

YHA Boscastle, Cornwall, PL35 0HD

Cornish Tales - Staying at Boscastle YHA, photo by modernbricabrac.com

Please follow my blog by clicking here to Follow via Bloglovin
SHARE:

Wednesday

Cornish Tales - Staying at Lizard Point

Not surprisingly I didn't want to leave Coverack. It had reminded me of the beautiful north Antrim coastline and in particular Portballintrae. What could be better?

Leave we did and our next night was booked for a stay at the YHA Lizard Point. As we drove up another windy narrow lane we passed the lighthouse at England's most southerly point and found the driveway to the YHA.


Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac


In front us lay manicured lawns with undulating banks, mature shrubs and a large garden full of agapanthus. At the other end of the drive stood a late Victorian house with a bell tower. Directly behind this could be seen the working lighthouse. A reminder of the real danger that this coastline still poses today.

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac


Maintained partly by the National Trust and partly by the YHA, the hostel is run thanks to the same couple that run Coverack, with the help of some volunteers and I'm so glad they do.

We checked in and found our room on the first floor and again had the most spectacular view. Two seats in the bay window were waiting for us and we obligingly sat down to take in the seascape. As I sat down I did that big sighing thing that I do when I can't help myself. What a view! What a privilege to enjoy such a view. That is how I felt.

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac


The weather was warm and with evening approaching we headed into Lizard to find somewhere to eat. A sign leapt out at me. It was the kind of sign I hope to see whenever I am by the sea. It read, "Fresh Lobster and chips £20".

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac


We walked into the bar of the Top House Inn and asked a lady at the foot of the restaurant area if there was any lobster to be had. Another member of staff joined her and said he would find out if there was any left. He returned to tell us there were two left, we were in luck. We were served quickly and the lobster was possibly the best I have ever eaten. I'd hugely recommend loitering about the Inn in case you get a chance to tuck into some local fare too.

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac


After a day in the sun, both the Welsh One and I had also turned the colour of a cooked lobster and I was quite happy to head back into the dusk to hide my glowing face.

The almost full moon had come out and we decided to take a final walk out of the hostel. We headed down the path towards the sea, through the gate and there on the other side we found a forager nipping a select number of leaves from the slope of green that flanked the coastal path.

I'd never met a forager before and couldn't help but ask them a few questions. Within seconds the forager had turned the carpet of green into a vegetable counter at a supermarket. Here was sea beet, sea carrot (no good if you're pregnant, I was told from under a set of eyebrows) and there, more sea spinach also known as sea beet.

Is there any samphire? I asked, naming the only foraged vegetable I could remember. Over there, I was told, you see with the yellow flowers. The forager's story was one of personal sadness and restoration through the bounty of the natural world, which had given succour when mere survival had become difficult. It was a story I won't forget.

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac

As we returned up the path the light from the lighthouse streaked across the sky from directly behind the hostel in the most dramatic fashion. In our room moonlight came streaming in, it was a cloudless night. Across the sea a trail of light from the moon traced the surface. We left the windows open and I slept the deep sleep of someone who had begun to relax.

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac

Standout moment - the view from our room at the YHA

Standout meal - the lobster at the Top House Inn

YHA Lizard Point, Cornwall, TR12 7NT

Cornish Tales, staying at YHA Lizard, photo by modern bric a brac

Please follow my blog by clicking here to Follow via Bloglovin
SHARE:

Thursday

Cornish Tales - Staying in Coverack

Our journey to Coverack was horrible. For the second year running we vowed we would never do it again, as we finally reached our destination.

Despite having left at 8:30 am from Southampton and aided by road maps and sat nav, by the time we reached the long road from Helston to Coverack we had been in the car for over six hours.

Check in was at 5 pm and it was around 3 o'clock so we had time to explore a little and decided to wander down the steep hill to see what was in Coverack village. The narrow road wound round a couple of bends with pretty houses on either side, while ahead of us stretched a spectacular coastline. In view came the pretty little harbour of Coverack packed full of colourful fishing boats and families with kids jumping into the sea in wetsuits. Dogs ran about happily beside their owners and a cafe overlooking the scene was selling local Roskilly ice-cream to a steady stream of customers.

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


We walked on smiling towards the Paris pub and carried on around the other side of it and up the coastal path. A little further up we finally sat down on some rocks and surveyed the view, in front of us lay the sea. We listened to the waves in silence and the rugged coastline made me wonder how many ships might have come asunder near where we were sitting.

Now, a little more relaxed we headed back to our lodgings to check in at the YHA Coverack. As soon as we entered I couldn't help but notice the grand wooden staircase that dominated the entrance lobby. A notice at the foot of the stairs soon made the staircase even more interesting, it read:

This staircase and balcony belonged to the US liner Mohegan. Wrecked on the Manacle Rocks Oct 14 1898

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


As we climbed the stairs we could read copies of notices for auctioned goods of other wrecked ships hung on the wall. A sale from a ship wreck in 1812 included 179 firkins of butter, 2 cases of English China and 11 iron tea kettles.

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


We reached the first floor and opened the door to our room and immediately were drawn to the large sash window with the most spectacular view across the sea. This was my first YHA view and it was incredible.

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


Later that evening we went exploring and walked over to the headland that we could see from our bedroom by Chynall's Point. Now protected by the National Trust the hillside was occupied by a small herd of Shetland ponies. On our way back we found the most incredible sculpture park, so incredible in fact, I'm dedicating my next blog post to photos of the sculptures.

The next day we met up with relatives and had a fabulous time that I think was made even sweeter thanks to sharing a delicious Cornish afternoon tea at Harbour Lights. The lady who owned the cafe told me she had opened it three years ago and that all the cakes were homemade. Commanding a fabulous view across Coverack Cove we settled down to a delicious cream tea for two.

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac


With thanks to YHA Coverack for giving us a room for the night.

YHA Coverack, Helston, Cornwall, TR12 6SA

Staying in YHA Coverack, photo by modern bric a brac

Please follow my blog by clicking here to Follow via Bloglovin

SHARE:
Blogger Template Created by pipdig