This more picturesque trail starts its journey inland and develops from no more than a narrow path that follows the meandering Cuckmere River into a well-trodden tourist attraction at Cuckmere Haven.
Every time I've passed this spot and taken in the view, I've wanted to stop immediately and follow this much more scenic footpath instead, intrigued by what I would see and hear in the natural chalky grasslands landscape.
On a day when the weather was absolutely glorious, my favourite companion and I did just that, and as a consequence, discovered on our travels the unbelievably pretty Alfriston and an enormous chalk white horse.
Roughly a thirty minute drive from Brighton, the village of Alfriston is a worthwhile place to visit. Although small in size, Alfriston village offers a number of places to stop for refreshment, whether that's tea and cake or something more substantial. There are also hearty pub lunches available in traditional old English settings, as well as stylish fine dining restaurants, such as Deans Place Hotel too.
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| National Trust Alfriston Clergy House |
There are also independent shops to take a look in, such as an independent bookshop that could best be described as meandering, a fitting epithet for a bookshop in a town beside the meandering Cuckmere River. Much Ado Books, meanders over different floors and buildings with a delightful range of nooks and crannies to explore while looking in and at books. Other great shops to visit on its main street include an old-fashioned general store that seems to cram in a huge number of useful items and local produce as well as other shops selling art, antiques and an Italian grocers.
After leaving Alfriston we headed towards West Dene and nearby noticed on the hillside the huge white horse that this area is famous for. To our left we spotted indications that we might be able to find a path that would lead up to it and on that basis we found somewhere to park so that we could take a closer look.
Our walk took us alongside a wooded area until we reached the riverbank where we could see the river bending to the left and right of us on either side. Opposite, a herd of copper coloured cattle grazed peacefully, while above them on the hillside we could see the chalked figure of the Litlington white horse, but still no sign of how to cross to the river.
Without spotting anywhere to cross we walked north in search of a bridge. As we walked we watched a little white heron land on the bank of the river. She spotted us, flapped her wings and flew a little further off. A couple of swans with their teenage cygnets nestled behind grasses while they cleaned their wings and then, in the distance, we finally spotted a bridge.
Crossing the river we had to double back on ourselves to reach the white horse but within no time we were on the path next to the cattle and at the bottom of a very steep path that led to the top of the hill.
Every few steps I had to stop to catch my breath, the gradient was so steep, meanwhile, my favourite companion waited patiently, without appearing to be challenged at all. 'Come on, really?' I thought. 'This hill?'
We reached the top and were rewarded with the most stunning panoramic view across the Cuckmere Valley from the sea all the way to the Weald in the north. The white horse had become almost completely obscured but we had been compensated in the most magnificent way.
Later that day we stopped at a local pub, The Sussex Ox for lunch and on the wall was a very old photo of the White Horse of Hindover with the following information:
The horse was cut in 1834 by James Pagden, his brother and a group of friends, including a Mr Ade when they lived at Frog Firle farm. This was recorded by James' sister Florence Pagden in her book on the area.
In 1924, Mr J T Ade of Hellingley re-cut the horse and made further repairs in 1949, after it had been covered up during WWII. Since then repair work has been carried out by East Sussex County Council, and the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers.
There was one more treat that awaited us as we travelled back to Brighton in the form of another, even older piece of hill art. Nestled in the green hillside, we spied the outline of a male figure between two vertical lines far off in the distance.
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| The Long Man of Wilmington |
It was The Long Man of Wilmington, believed to have been created by Benedictine monks from a nearby priory more than 600 years ago. However, taking a closer look at this chalk figure, we decided, would have to be for another day.
Post updated July 2023
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