At one time St Nicholas Church was the only church in town. When Brighton became fashionable in the eighteenth century and was frequented by the likes of Dr Samuel Johnson and Hester Thrale, it was to this church that they would walk up to from West Street to say their devotions. St Nicholas' had other celebrated connections as well, such as the Duke of Wellington, the dipper Martha Gunn and the female soldier Phoebe Hessel.
St Nicholas church could already be considered ancient by the 1700s and it was from this time when Brighton began to expand rapidly that it took on a central role as the mother church of Brighton.
Even today, 900 years on, this old church is at the heart of a thriving community and a very welcoming place to visit. Located in the centre of Brighton it is just a few further strides up from the clock tower and a perfect place to escape from the noise and distractions of the town centre.
The church has a very long history that can be traced back to the 11th century. One of the church's most precious treasures is a Norman font that dates from this period and was made from a single block of Caen stone.
During the eighteenth century, as the town, known as Brighthelmstone became a popular seaside destination, the church began to see some high profile worshippers grace its pews. The affluent and highly-connected Hester and Henry Thrale from Streatham became regular visitors and brought with them their friends, including Dr Samuel Johnson and the writer Frances Burney. From where they lived on West Street, now commemorated by a blue plaque, St Nicholas was only a short distance away.
Dr Johnson was not only a deeply religious man but he had a scathing wit and loved to debate as well. In Brighton he found a good opponent in the vicar of St Nicholas, Henry Mitchell. At one particular social gathering they both became so animated in a heated argument that they took up fireside utensils to enforce their points. The matter was ended when the Master of Ceremonies had to restrain the pair (anecdote from An Historical Guide to the Parish Church of St Nicholas by Brian Brooks).
To commemorate Dr Samuel Johnson's association with St Nicholas church a plaque was erected at the eastern end of the north aisle, near where he would have worshipped.
Dr Samuel Johnson
During the eighteenth century, as the town, known as Brighthelmstone became a popular seaside destination, the church began to see some high profile worshippers grace its pews. The affluent and highly-connected Hester and Henry Thrale from Streatham became regular visitors and brought with them their friends, including Dr Samuel Johnson and the writer Frances Burney. From where they lived on West Street, now commemorated by a blue plaque, St Nicholas was only a short distance away.
Dr Johnson was not only a deeply religious man but he had a scathing wit and loved to debate as well. In Brighton he found a good opponent in the vicar of St Nicholas, Henry Mitchell. At one particular social gathering they both became so animated in a heated argument that they took up fireside utensils to enforce their points. The matter was ended when the Master of Ceremonies had to restrain the pair (anecdote from An Historical Guide to the Parish Church of St Nicholas by Brian Brooks).
To commemorate Dr Samuel Johnson's association with St Nicholas church a plaque was erected at the eastern end of the north aisle, near where he would have worshipped.
Martha Gunn
Other notable figures from this period have been commemorated at St Nicholas' on gravestones in the churchyard. One of them belongs to the famous dipper Martha Gunn and her family. It can be found along the path to the right of the main entrance.
Martha also proved to be a popular subject for artists and was painted and drawn by many visitors. The inscription to Martha Gunn's gravestone reads:
Less well-known nowadays is another ordinary woman who lived an extraordinary life. After serving as a soldier and giving birth to nine children she eventually ended up at the Workhouse. Her plight was discovered by the Prince Regent who gave her an annuity that enabled her to leave the Workhouse at the age of 95.
Her impressive gravestone was paid for by a local pawn broker and later restored by the Northumberland Fusiliers who took her as one of their own. It now lies right beside the entrance to the church and reads as follows:
Finally, the Duke of Wellington's connection to St Nicholas' relates to his early years as a young boy. Before going to Eton he attended an Academy for Young Gentlemen presided over by the same Henry Mitchell referred to earlier.
His very grand memorial formed in the style of an Eleanor Cross stands near the Norman font. The inscription reads:
While I was there I stopped to chat to artist Dan Woods who was sketching the interior of the church at the time. He said he had felt very welcomed by the church and found it a very special place to visit. Dan said that the church of St Nicholas had invited him to exhibit his work there.
I also spoke to one of the volunteers who was on hand the day I visited. His name was Mike Jackson who shared with me his own connection to one its celebrated figures. Although bearing a different surname he had discovered that he was in fact a direct descendant of Martha Gunn.
St Nicholas Church, Church Street, Brighton
MARTHA, Wife of STEPHEN GUNN, who was Peculiarly Distinguished as a bather in this Town nearly 70 Years. She died 2nd of May, 1815, Aged 88 Years.
Phoebe Hessel
Less well-known nowadays is another ordinary woman who lived an extraordinary life. After serving as a soldier and giving birth to nine children she eventually ended up at the Workhouse. Her plight was discovered by the Prince Regent who gave her an annuity that enabled her to leave the Workhouse at the age of 95.
Her impressive gravestone was paid for by a local pawn broker and later restored by the Northumberland Fusiliers who took her as one of their own. It now lies right beside the entrance to the church and reads as follows:
In Memory of PHOEBE HESSEL who was born at Stepney in the Year 1713
She served for many Years as a private soldier in the 5th Reg. of foot in different parts of Europe
and in the year 1745 fought under the command of the DUKE of CUMBERLAND at the Battle of Fontenoy
where she received a Bayonet wound in her Arm
Her long life which commenced in the time of QUEEN ANNE extended to the reign of GEORGE IV
by whose munificence she received comfort and support in her latter Years
She died at Brighton where she had long resided December 12th 1821 Aged 108 Years
The Duke of Wellington
In memory of the great Duke of Wellington this sacred building in which, in his youth, he worshipped God, is restored.
While I was there I stopped to chat to artist Dan Woods who was sketching the interior of the church at the time. He said he had felt very welcomed by the church and found it a very special place to visit. Dan said that the church of St Nicholas had invited him to exhibit his work there.
I also spoke to one of the volunteers who was on hand the day I visited. His name was Mike Jackson who shared with me his own connection to one its celebrated figures. Although bearing a different surname he had discovered that he was in fact a direct descendant of Martha Gunn.
St Nicholas is free to visit but a donation is much appreciated.
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