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Days Out in Brighton - St Nicholas Church and the Eighteenth Century

At one time St Nicholas Church was the only church in town. When Brighton became fashionable in the eighteenth century and was frequented by the likes of Dr Samuel Johnson and Hester Thrale, it was to this church that they would walk up to from West Street to say their devotions. St Nicholas' had other celebrated connections as well, such as the Duke of Wellington, the dipper Martha Gunn and the female soldier Phoebe Hessel. 

St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


St Nicholas church could already be considered ancient by the 1700s and it was from this time when Brighton began to expand rapidly that it took on a central role as the mother church of Brighton.

Even today, 900 years on, this old church is at the heart of a thriving community and a very welcoming place to visit. Located in the centre of Brighton it is just a few further strides up from the clock tower and a perfect place to escape from the noise and distractions of the town centre.

Red church door, St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew

The church has a very long history that can be traced back to the 11th century. One of the church's most precious treasures is a Norman font that dates from this period and was made from a single block of Caen stone.

Caen stone font at St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew



St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew

Dr Samuel Johnson

During the eighteenth century, as the town, known as Brighthelmstone became a popular seaside destination, the church began to see some high profile worshippers grace its pews. The affluent and highly-connected Hester and Henry Thrale from Streatham became regular visitors and brought with them their friends, including Dr Samuel Johnson and the writer Frances Burney. From where they lived on West Street, now commemorated by a blue plaque, St Nicholas was only a short distance away.

Memorial to Dr Samuel Johnson St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


Dr Johnson was not only a deeply religious man but he had a scathing wit and loved to debate as well. In Brighton he found a good opponent in the vicar of St Nicholas, Henry Mitchell. At one particular social gathering they both became so animated in a heated argument that they took up fireside utensils to enforce their points. The matter was ended when the Master of Ceremonies had to restrain the pair (anecdote from An Historical Guide to the Parish Church of St Nicholas by Brian Brooks).

To commemorate Dr Samuel Johnson's association with St Nicholas church a plaque was erected at the eastern end of the north aisle, near where he would have worshipped.

Martha Gunn

Other notable figures from this period have been commemorated at St Nicholas' on gravestones in the churchyard. One of them belongs to the famous dipper Martha Gunn and her family. It can be found along the path to the right of the main entrance.

pigeon in flint wall St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


Dippers or bathers were physically strong local women who would take bathing huts on wheels into the sea so that genteel ladies could dip into sea water without being seen. Martha Gunn began her career as a bather in the 1740s and continued working as one until the end of the eighteenth century. She was so well known that the Prince Regent knew about her and gave her the freedom to visit the Royal Pavilion kitchens whenever she wanted. 

Martha also proved to be a popular subject for artists and was painted and drawn by many visitors. The inscription to Martha Gunn's gravestone reads:

MARTHA, Wife of STEPHEN GUNN, who was Peculiarly Distinguished as a bather in this Town nearly 70 Years. She died 2nd of May, 1815, Aged 88 Years.

Phoebe Hessel

Less well-known nowadays is another ordinary woman who lived an extraordinary life. After serving as a soldier and giving birth to nine children she eventually ended up at the Workhouse. Her plight was discovered by the Prince Regent who gave her an annuity that enabled her to leave the Workhouse at the age of 95.

Phoebe Hessel gravestone, St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


Her impressive gravestone was paid for by a local pawn broker and later restored by the Northumberland Fusiliers who took her as one of their own. It now lies right beside the entrance to the church and reads as follows:

In Memory of PHOEBE HESSEL who was born at Stepney in the Year 1713

She served for many Years as a private soldier in the 5th Reg. of foot in different parts of Europe

and in the year 1745 fought under the command of the DUKE of CUMBERLAND at the Battle of Fontenoy

where she received a Bayonet wound in her Arm

Her long life which commenced in the time of QUEEN ANNE extended to the reign of GEORGE IV

by whose munificence she received comfort and support in her latter Years

She died at Brighton where she had long resided December 12th 1821 Aged 108 Years

 

The Duke of Wellington

Finally, the Duke of Wellington's connection to St Nicholas' relates to his early years as a young boy. Before going to Eton he attended an Academy for Young Gentlemen presided over by the same Henry Mitchell referred to earlier.

Memorial to the Duke of Wellington, St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


His very grand memorial formed in the style of an Eleanor Cross stands near the Norman font. The inscription reads:

In memory of the great Duke of Wellington this sacred building in which, in his youth, he worshipped God, is restored. 

While I was there I stopped to chat to artist Dan Woods who was sketching the interior of the church at the time. He said he had felt very welcomed by the church and found it a very special place to visit. Dan  said that the church of St Nicholas had invited him to exhibit his work there.

Artist Dan Woods, St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew


I also spoke to one of the volunteers who was on hand the day I visited. His name was Mike Jackson who shared with me his own connection to one its celebrated figures. Although bearing a different surname he had discovered that he was in fact a direct descendant of Martha Gunn.

St Nicholas Church Brighton and the Eighteenth Century, photo by Sarah Agnew

St Nicholas Church, Church Street, Brighton

St Nicholas is free to visit but a donation is much appreciated.

Pigeon in flint wall at St Nicholas church, Brighton

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